Seiko Champion - When Less Is More

Seiko Champion Calendar 860 7622-8980

In the huge back catalog of watches made by Japan's Seiko Watch Corporation there are many examples of minimalist dials. The classic styling of Grand Seiko probably first comes to mind, but there are minimalist watches from other sub-brands including the one featured in this article.

This is a Seiko Champion Calendar 860 from 1964. Ironically, it can be accused of having too much writing on the dial, but those incredibly small indexes, and large expanses of luscious cream dial, surely qualify it as a minimalist watch.

And the indexes are worthy of their own paragraph. "Less is more" definitely applies here. Small pillars of an incredibly shiny metal (palladium, rhodium, chrome ? - see below) are located at 5 minute intervals on a circular ridged track. That ridged track is actually three layers forming the outer minute track, with each layer set slightly back from the other. Despite their small size the indexes are incredibly reflective (even jewel like) and have facets cut into their top surface. The result is that even the slightest movement creates a starburst from each index and it is one of those watches that makes reading the time so easy. 

The rectangular date window spoils the effect a bit (don't they all?) but the colour and depth of the surround mirrors the outer minute track, which is a nice touch.

Adding to the "less is more" effect are the watch hands. The hour and minute hands are slim needle hands and the second hand is "barely there", but thanks to bright plating on a cream dial they stand out magnificently.

I love this watch. Its vintage style with minimalist design ticks many boxes in my preference list. I love the slight sunburst on a cream dial, the easily read time and date, the depth created by the three layered minute track, and the hint of tuxedo style. The fact that it runs reliably within 20 seconds a day is a bonus.

POSTSCRIPT:

1. This article is all about minimalist watch design but I want to make a comment about the case material on this watch. You might notice that there is a significant amount of plating degradation. The case back notes STP which on Seiko's listings means Stainless Steel Plating. According to a number of Google search results, you cannot plate base metal with stainless steel. Clearly this case is made of base metal (with a brass look) that has been plated, and, I am not a metalurgist, but I believe it is chrome plating. 

I usually avoid damaged cases. And, I support polishing of a case if it removes man-made damage. But, natural metal degradation is inescapable. For manufacturers back in the early 1960's, stainless steel was simply too expensive for entry level watches. This watch wears its age without apologies and I embrace its vintageness.

2. Nerd warning: skip this paragraph if you are NOT a watch nerd. At the bottom of the dial on this watch is the notation "Japan 7622 - 8980RAD". If you do a google search for "Seiko RAD" you will come up with a confusing discussion from a number of forums. It is clear that the meaning of RAD is not clear. Many of Seiko's acronyms have puzzled enthusiasts over the years. Some suggest that the "AD" part is consistent with later terminology by Seiko. The letters AD have been printed on many Seiko watches and refers to "Applied Dial" often with gold plated indexes, while SD on other Seikos refers to a "Special Dial" with solid gold or white gold indexes. Could RAD refer to an applied dial with Rhodium fittings?