It is said that Andy Warhol didn’t wind his Cartier watch, but simply wore it as a piece of jewellery. I own a watch (a Seiko 9521-5110) that has a similar effect on me.
When I think about choosing this watch for the day, it is the bracelet that is forefront in my mind. In fairness, it is an integrated bracelet, not just an add-on. Whoever designed this watch wasn’t just adding a bracelet to a watch head. They were creating a unified piece of jewellery that also tells the time.
The watch head itself is great. It is a slim, discrete dress watch with an amazing jewel like case hewn from some sort of super hard alloy that is 5 times tougher than stainless steel. It has a simple no-nonsense dial and hands, and because it doesn’t have a date, it satisfies my penchant for minimalist dials. It is Quartz powered (actually it is more correct to say it is battery powered and Quartz regulated) and a great put-on-and-go option.
But that bracelet!! The bracelet is integrated with a fine mesh that just flows like a river. It is beautifully tapered - 22mm at the case and 15mm at the clasp. The individual tiny links are not flimsy or so individual as to randomly position themselves, but form a cohesiveness that is flexible, yet controlled. A line of larger links borders each side of the bracelet, and they become broader as they get closer to the case. (My descriptive powers are struggling here. Please just look at the photo.) The effect gives strong art-deco vibes and that is probably no accident because “tank” style watches like this were designed by Cartier in the 1920’s.
The bracelet has one of those wonderful sliding clasps that gives infinite adjustability and the clasp itself operates with a reassuring click. The fluidity in the bracelet and its lightness means that it is incredibly comfortable and I don’t feel pressured to remove the watch at night, unlike some of my heavier dive watches.
As noted above, I am describing a piece of jewellery. The quality of the bracelet, the gentle hue of the metal, and the seamless integration with the watch head all create a near perfect relationship for me. It can be said that a bracelet or strap can range from a simple functional accessory for a watch, to a crucial part of the overall design, and with this watch, it is definitely the latter.
By Greg Smith
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