In 2017, Seiko announced that Grand Seiko would be splitting off to become a separate luxury brand focused on the high-end watch market. But Grand Seiko’s date back to the 60’s and have always been respected high-end watches, now highly sort after on the vintage watch market.
The essence of Grand Seiko was developed in the 60’s. Inspired in part by the art of gem cutting, Seiko designer Taro Tanaka delved into the philosophy of watch design. By 1962, he developed a series of rules that he called the “Grammar of Design.” The “Grammar of Design” boiled down to four basic tenets. First, all surfaces and angles from the case, dial, hands, and indices had to be flat and geometrically perfect to best reflect light. Second, bezels were to be simple two-dimensional faceted curves. Third, no visual distortion was to be tolerated from any angle, and all cases and dials should be mirror-finished. Finally, all cases must be unique, with no more generic round case designs.
My recent acquisition is a Seiko 6306-8020 from 1977. You will see it in the photo on the left below and on the right is a Grand Seiko – a 6146-8000 from 1968.
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They are similar aren't they? The 6306 movement in my watch on the left beats at 21,600 bpm, hacks (the second hand stops when you pull the crown to adjust the time allowing exact time setting), was made only for JDM (Japan Domestic Market), and found favour mainly in dive watches. The 6306 movement was a progression from the 6105 movement that powered Seiko’s iconic early divers like the 62MAS. The SS on my dial stands for “Second Setting” and was associated with the JDM only ACTUS branding used by Seiko.
What about values? My 6306 cost around A$50 but that was because it was included in a lot of 5 watches that all needed some attention. The 6306 came without a strap, and had a couple of scratches on the crystal, but otherwise was in perfect working order. A Grand Seiko like the 6146-8000 shown above will set you back as much as $4000.
Interestingly, a Seiko Dive Watch with the 6306 movement will set you back A$2500-$3500 - indicating that there are many twists and turns in the value of vintage Seiko's.
The similarities in design of the two watches are evident and I am very happy to have such a quality piece in my collection. Incidentally, the 6306 originally came with a leather strap similar to the lizard skin version I have on it now.
The collecting of vintage Seiko watches continues to give much joy and my “substitute Grand Seiko” ranks very highly.
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