Seiko Ginza Alpinist Hits The Street

Seiko have an amazing depth in their range of watches and even individual series like the Alpinist have a confusion of choices, but one recent limited edition Alpinist has a dial that makes it outstanding, and I have one.

The Seiko Alpinist is often seen as an explorer’s ultimate watch. It was released originally in 1959 for Japanese mountain climbers. It had a modest 35mm case with clear, easily read dial, and rugged construction ideally suited for the rigors of climbing mountains. It was also highly water resistant - very helpful during blizzards.

There have been a number of generations of Alpinist over the years including the popular SARB017 of 2006 with its attractive green dial and double crown, one driving an internal rotating bezel. 

In February 2021 a new Prospex Alpinist, was launched known as the"1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation." The particular version in this review is the SPB259 which will almost certainly become known as the Ginza Alpinist. This watch not only shows off its Alpinist roots but it is a limited edition celebrating Seiko’s 140th Anniversary. The very attractive dial represents the cobblestones in the streets of Ginza where Seiko’s head office occupies a prime location.

 

The Ginza is moderate in size at 39mm across (without the crown) although at 13mm it is a little thicker than many watches in the category. The lug to lug is 46mm so it should wear well. An unusual feature is the lug width which we measured repeatedly at 19.4 mm and that will disappoint some because 19mm straps are thin on the ground. The leather strap shown in some of our photos is a 20mm strap fitted with 19mm spring bars and we managed to squeeze it in with some coaxing. 

The case is a mix of brushed and polished surfaces – brushed on the sides of the case and on the top of the lugs, polished along the edge and top of the case, and the bezel is fully polished.

The dial is truly a work of art. It is described as blue/grey or teal in colour, and consists of multiple rectangular “cobblestones” arranged in an 8 sided pattern around the centre shaft. There are two reflection patterns going on here. The dial broadly displays a sunburst effect while each “cobblestone” can change its shade depending on how the dial is tilted against the light. This can be seen clearly in the photos. It is a very dynamic dial.

The minute track is set a few millimeters in from the edge of the dial and comprises a black ring with silver or white minute markers. The second hand (which is an eye-catching light blue with a white arrow tip) reaches out past the minute track and almost to the edge of the dial.

The main dial indices are a real highlight with “mountain-peak” triangular indices at 12, 6, and 9, and a framed date window at 3. The 5 minute markers are diving board style carrying out just beyond the minute track. The marker at 12 is a slight variation of the “mountain-peak” which will help locate the top of the watch when the lume activates in dark conditions. All the main indices are lumed.

The crystal is sapphire for maximum scratch resistance, the caseback is see-through, and the 6R35 movement has a 70 hour power reserve so you can put it down for nearly 3 days and it will still be running. The crown is screw-down to assist the 200m water resistance rating suitable for diving (or enduring mountain blizzards).

The supplied steel bracelet is certainly a cut above Seiko’s usual offering. It is a 3 link style with predominantly brushed surfaces. The ends of the middle links and the sides of the bracelet are polished. This is a 19mm bracelet, tapering to 18mm at the clasp. The push button clasp has two micro adjusts and the hinged “deployants” are milled steel with a chamfered edge for wrist comfort. The bracelet is substantial and weighs 80gms unsized, while the complete watch on a leather strap weighs just 78 gms.

The overall style of this case can be described as traditional. It is quite thick at 13mm and the straight sides and 39mm diameter add to that traditional look. The appearance and quality of finish have a number of enthusiasts declaring a Grand Seiko vibe. And with that in mind, the amazing dial is certainly up to the standard of a higher level watch.

What I really like about this watch is the simple functional design ethic. It is clean, easy to read, and just does the job it was designed to do - tell the time in extreme conditions. And I think I now understand why the Rolex Explorer has such a unique place in that brands line-up. Some watches are pretenders. Some watches aim for extreme features. The Alpinist does its job without over-reaching and there-in lies its charm. The stunning dial is just a bonus.

Greg Smith