Quartz has taken a hit when it comes to the luxury watch category but that wasn’t always the case. Early quartz watches were indeed luxury. The first quartz watch, the Seiko Astron, cost the equivalent of a family car and even after things had settled down following its introduction in 1969, quartz watches were still double the price of their mechanical counterparts for at least a decade.
These days quartz watches are mass produced at various price levels including “cheap and nasty” which probably accounts for their reputation hit. Like many things in life there are varying degrees of quality. Up-market watch brands like Cartier and Longines include high quality quartz watches in their current ranges and the 8J and 9F quartz movements found in Grand Seiko’s are legendary for accuracy and longevity.
So back in the 70’s we had quartz watches that were over-engineered by today’s standards and included adjustable jewelled movements with outstanding accuracy, and as it turns out, long lasting reliability. The watch in our lead photo is a Seiko 4004 series featuring a serviceable, although un-jewelled movement, and something called a trimmer condenser. A trimmer condenser allows adjustment of the movement by turning a small screw, something only found in high end watches today. The watch had better-than-standard finishing to its stainless steel case and this particular version has a fancy ten sided crystal - very 70’s!
As quartz watch manufacturers took advantage of increased volumes and costs dropped well below their traditional mechanical competitors, the stage was set for complete disruption of the watch industry. This period is often identified with the term “quartz crisis”. Traditional manufacturers (predominantly Swiss) experienced significant competition, and were unable to meet new customer demands for accuracy and price. Many traditional manufacturers did not survive the crisis.
The introduction of quartz watches was so disruptive to the traditional mechanical watch movement industry that conflict was inevitable and still today there are many who view quartz watches with disdain. Quartz might have the edge on accuracy but when it comes to handmade excellence, traditional skills, and hand-me-down longevity, mechanical watches hold top spot.
It is probably fair to say that the mechanical watch industry has stabilized its position in competition with quartz. Both have their place. As noted above, some well known higher end brands like Longines and Cartier have introduced important quartz watches into their ranges and the amazing thermo compensated Citizen Caliber 0100 with its stunning accuracy to within 1 second per year has many enthusiastic followers.
In addition to superlative movements the 4004 series of watches had some unique features. They had a triple language day wheel, with variations including English-French-Spanish, English-German-Italian, English-Portugese-Spanish, English-Chinese-Roman numerals, and English-Arabic-Persian. We have noted that the movement was adjustable and it was also serviceable. The movement could be taken apart, cleaned, and oiled.
The 4004 was accompanied by a 3003 series with some very early ones called 2002 series. The 3003 was reportedly differentiated with a dual language day wheel. There were two movements used in these Seiko watches, the 0903 (used in my watch) and the 4622. The 0903A movement was considered simpler than earlier versions while still retaining the traditional watchmaking appearance. Typically these watches had a small slotted screw-in battery cover for battery replacement rather than having to remove the complete back of the watch.
There are many “rabbit burrows” to go down for watch collectors and this one, involving an over-engineered luxury pre-cursor to mass produced modern watches, is a particularly relevant one with interesting historical significance.
Quartz watches are often derided for their association with the cheap end of the watch market, but watches like the 4004 series remind us that quartz also has aspects of excellence, and the fact that this gorgeous blue-faced example is still keeping accurate time after 45 years is testament to that excellence.
ADDENDUM:
Seiko Quartz 4004 (Cal.0903A) Parts List -
https://www.seikoserviceusa.com/uploads/datasheets/0903A.pdf
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