Limited Edition Watches – The Value Is In The Story

Limited edition watches often get a lot of flack (hostility, anger) usually because they cost more than the watches they are based on, but there is a really important point to be made here. It concerns value.

One of the problems is that many watch collectors are obsessed by value, or is that overcome by guilt? Let me explain. For many of us horology obsessed collectors there are simply too many watches and too little money. We have to constantly justify our purchases, not only to ourselves but to our nearest and dearest. (“What can be more important than time?” etc. etc.) So a watch that is similarly constructed to one half its price deserves scrutiny.

I recently tried a new method to control my watch buying and this may be a great tip for you. I deliberately spent a lot of time researching this particular watch, purchased it, and then left it un-boxed in full view on my desk. I haven’t touched it. Each time I think of buying a new watch (on average 2 or 3 times a week) I remember I still have a watch on my desk, un-boxed, and waiting for that wonderful experience of the first time reveal. It has now been 6 weeks and even got me through Christmas and New Year. You can thank me later.

But I diverge…. Limited edition watches can add a whole new experience to watch ownership. I am not talking about the changing of a bezel or a new set of hands but something that adds to the story. And the story is the secret here. We love adding stories to our watches. Sometimes that story is the history of the watch maker. Sometimes it is a unique or particularly identifying feature. Sometimes it is a call-back to a particularly significant watch. We have such wonderful depth in our hobby that stories can come from many directions, and if they are told well, they can add real uniqueness and value.

Sometimes those stories come from outside horology. Seiko have done a few limited editions in recent times. A series of Seiko 5 watches based on the JoJo’s Bizarre Adventure anime series was launched in November 2019. Only 1000 of each of eight designs was offered and they quickly became collector’s items. Early in 2020 Seiko introduced the Brian May Limited Edition which paid tribute to the famous Queen guitarist and this time 9000 watches sold out. Since that time Seiko have introduced the Street Fighter Series limited edition and more recently the Naruto & Boruto anime themed watches.

I have mentioned the word “value” a number of times in this article, and in my mind that has related to uniqueness and desirability rather than dollars, but dollar values certainly play their part. The JoJo watches were launched late in 2019 at around US$435 and are now commonly around US$600 with some of the more desirable designs reaching US$1400. The Brian May watch was launched at US$620 RRP and if you can find one it will almost certainly be more than US$620. That is significant if you consider that many watches are sold well below RRP soon after launch.

The stories that go with limited edition watches are crucial to their desirability. We have all come across watches (usually from start-ups) that have elaborate but somehow contrived stories. Getting the story right and reflecting that story in the watch design is crucial here.

Let’s use one of Seiko’s recent launches as an example. The SRPF71K1 - Gaara is one of the 7 different designs found in the Naruto & Boruto anime themed watches. For those of you who are not familiar with Naruto & Boruto (I was one), they are highly popular anime characters out of Japan. Their story is complex, steeped in Japanese folklore, and attracts devoted followers. Gaara is a key character who has special fighting abilities, uses sand as one of his key powers, and has a one-tailed beast sealed inside him. Like I said, “for devoted followers” – but stick with me here because Seiko pull this story off brilliantly.

You will see from the photo that the watch has a dial that looks like sand. It has a grainy texture that I find really attractive, with or without a character connection. Seiko do a really good job of their dials even at these lower price points. The case has a lightly coloured coating that also represents sand. At the 1 ‘o’clock position you will see a red kanji character for “Love” (actually Gaara is a fierce warrior and there is not a lot of love evident [Oh hell!..I’m becoming an anime geek]).  The strange circular design bezel pip is identical to the eyes of Gaara’s internal one-tailed beast seen in many drawings online. The pattern shown on the dial ring, and also on the caseback, replicates the design on Gaara’s backpack gourd. And finally the red stripe on a grey nato represents Gaara’s preferred uniform colours. That is attention to detail, and an admirable ingredient of good story telling, even if you are not an anime fan.

The Seiko limited editions mentioned here are based around the 5KX series of sports watches.  5KX’s are available in various versions for around US$450 RRP with up to 30% discounts available if you hunt around. I can see why there is concern over the premium charged for limited edition watches. But aren’t we getting a lot more with the added story? Adding story enhancing features to a watch certainly adds complexity and value, and in the case of Seiko, if they keep getting it right, dollar values will not suffer.

I am not a Naruto & Boruto fan but I am attracted to what Seiko have done, and real fans are probably blown away. For me these stories represent yet another tunnel in this wonderful rabbit warren of horology and whilst I won’t be influenced by every limited edition watch that manufacturers introduce, those with good stories may get my attention. Did you know that Gaara’s sand powers are actually the spirit of his Mother? Oh, and the watch keeps pretty good time, is robust, and looks good on the wrist.